I live within walking distance to one of the 3 largest slums
in Nairobi called “Kawangware.” A few months ago, I was introduced to the
market where most natives buy their produce. It’s significantly cheaper than
the upscale supermarkets at the strip malls, so I use this as an opportunity
try to venture out my comfortable expat bubble and practice my rudimentary Swahilli.
Fresh food is cheapest on Tuesdays and Fridays when the
produce is transported from around the country to Nairobi for sale. Any of the
other days, one can expect the market prices to rise at least 10 -20 KSH
(.12-.25 USD) for each item.
There is always a chance that I could be robbed so I plan
accordingly. I only bring what is only essential –my wristwatch/jewelry and
cell phone stay at home, and I only carry a backpack, small amounts of cash
stashed in different pockets, and my keys. Then I’m on my way…
The market is about a 20-minute roadside walk to reach its
center. Along the way, I stroll by open-sewers (which aren’t the most pleasant
smelling with their garbage floating in brownish-black stagnant water). Nairobi
is under an el-Nino forecast and there is concern that the increased water will
cause flooding and water-borne diseases.
Unsuspecting free-range goats munch on the curbside trash.
Cute, grinning, pre-school age children hop around shouting “mzungu! Mzungu!”
to get my attention. I wave back and smile.
As I continue along the route, public buses pass within
inches of my body. I feel their heat as sooty exhaust hits my calves and dust
kicks up from the wheels and envelopes my face. The particles make my eyelids
itch.
Lots of tin-roof shacks sit not too far from the road. The
landscape is peppered with more sturdy cement block structures. There are small
“dukas” (Swahilli for shop), grocery stores, MPESA (mobile money transfer)
kiosks, women’s hair salons, etc.
The bright, mid-day sun shines down on the men minding their
carpentry businesses. Wood shavings shoot in every direction as they sand 2x4’s
with their electric machines. They wipe beads of sweat off their unmasked
faces. I also pass flying sparks as welders fuse metal rods.
A few elderly men sit roadside watching their neighbors
scoot along and gossip amongst themselves.
The majority just watch me pace past, while a few brazen,
youthful men might ask me if I’m interested in having a Kenyan boyfriend or
would fancy taking their hand in marriage.
Others shout “habari (the common Swahilli greeting – “what’s
your news?”), city girl.” My response is “salama” (peaceful).
Their eyes widen with my unexpected reply in Swahilli,
instead of English.
When I finally reach the market, its mid-morning and bustling
with activity.
There is a huge second-hand market in Africa.
Vendors sell everything from previously-worn baby clothes,
girls multi-patterned tights, men’s navy socks and polo shirts, second-hand
Nike and New Balance shoes, fake hair extensions (those I hope aren’t already
used, but I’m not sure), children’s stuffed teddy bears and knock-off Louis
Vuitton and Carolina Herrera women’s handbags.
Besides fresh produce, one can also find sun-dried sardines
by the bushel (the fish are caught on Lake Victoria), basic metal cookware and
pots, live chickens, pirated DVDs, and sacks
of assorted beans (black, lentils, maize, etc).
With the recent rains, the path between each stall is quite
muddy. I roll up my jean pant-legs, but my white sneakers get spattered with
mud. I try not to loose my balance and slip.
Within a few minutes, a youth approaches me to ask if I can
give him a small job to carry my bag while I shop. Kenyans are resourceful and
are opportunity-seekers. The unemployment rate is exceptionally high in the
slums and manual labor can be the easiest type of short-term work to find.
I politely decline.
Within 30-minutes, I’ve visited 6 or 7 stalls and bought my
weekly fruits and veggies:
Bunch of Parsley = 5 KSH (.06 USD)
12 small, red Roma Tomatoes = 30 KSH (.36 USD)
1 medium Pineapple = 70 KSH (.82 USD)
2-lb green Watermelon = 150 KSH ($1.75 USD)
bunch of Carrots (8 medium) = 10 KSH (.12USD)
3 medium Green Bell Peppers = 20 KHS (.24 USD)
5 eggs = 60 KSH (.71 USD)
1-lb of French green beans = 40 KSH (.48 USD)
6 small red onions = 20 KSH (.24 USD)
3 large ripe bananas = 25KSH (.30 USD)
1 pint of strawberries = 80 KSH (.95 USD)
Total: ~ 600 KSH ($7.00 USD)
On my shopping excursions, my backpack is the most useful
tool. I can pack a full week’s worth of groceries inside and not feel sluggish carrying
everything back to the house.
0 comments:
Post a Comment