This afternoon, I was invited to a 200+ person wedding just down the road from the university where I now teach. The adorable couple is currently living in Kansas City, but they wanted to officially celebrate their union at home. In true African style, I found out the details of the wedding yesterday via text by the groom. The couple are newfound friends whom I'd met when we were all staying a mutual friend's house the first month I lived in Nairobi. Earlier this year, they flew into town for a week to finalize wedding details and I was homeless acclimating to my other job. The groom and I became instant friends over some Sambuca (regionally produced here in 3 varieties--- cherry is my favorite flavor and had never tasted it prior to moving to Kenya.) Today, their big day had arrived.
This was my first African wedding and in true African style (aka "African time"), the ceremony didn't begin until almost 2 hours after the 10:30am time printed on the "official" program. I was the only "Mzungu" (translates in swahilli to white person) and the first guest to appear. As other family and friends milled around after 11am, the flower arrangers and wedding planners hurriedly organized the seating chairs and make-shift alter in preparation for the festivities to begin. This was another example illustrating just how relaxed East African culture truly is.
At noon, the ceremony began and was officiated by 2 pastors from a local congregation. There were also two gospel singers who sang songs in swahilli or kikuyu (both languages I know very few words). The service was predominently in English and assimilated many of the Western elements like seating for family/friends of the groom on one side of the aisle, blessing of the rings, singing upbeat traditional songs. Numerous times the Pastor said this was a happy occasion so guests should be smiling. He said that this occasion was not a funeral-- yet his words were quite ironic because Kenya is currently in mourning since two ministers died in a helecopter crash last week and today all TV stations broadcast the funeral service all afternoon.
During the sermon, the pastor animatedly spoke for about an hour on how a stable marriage should be grounded on "principles" of saying "I love you" regularly to your spouse and having God in your home. In the absence of these "principles" your wife could stray and seek support from the house guard or family driver. While the man needs to have "focus" and "vision in life." Women don't want men who lack vision and direction.
The Pastor also took the opportunity to talk politics which is a staple in daily life. He intertwined a diatribe on gay marriage and how Obama has disgraced Kenyans by endorsing this union. Then wedding-goers asking if there was anyone present who disagreed that gay marriage is wrong and that they should stand up and speak up. Reflecting on this now and given my diverse friends, this banishment is border-line hate speech. It always surprises me when religion aims to teach respect, love and kindess for each other, but advertently incites judgement.
The reception was held in a beautiful ballroom with a buffet lunch of traditional delicacies (flavored rice, beef medallions, tomato soup and salad, sauteed spinach, fried potatoes, fried fish, etc.).
After everyone ate, the DJ mixed African classic pop songs and I shuffled my way into the back of the dance line hurriedly trying to keep step with the Kenyan line dances which everyone seemed to know but me. The afternoon playlist comprised of all Kenyan swahilli songs with the exception of Beyonce's "Single Ladies" which bellowed during the throwing of the bride's bouquet.
One of the highlights of the day was when the groom serenaded his wife by lipsynching to two Luther Vandross songs. He was the consummate entertainer with his swagger and panache as he held the mic in one hand and his woman's hand in the other.
The "climax" (truly the word the MC used toward the end of the afternoon) was the cutting of the cake. The cake was what Americans would consider to be German Christmas fruit cake. After the bride and groom cut a slice for each other, the bride walked around the ballroom serving all the guests a bite with a fork. This is symbolic with tradition that it is the woman who feeds the family in life. The cake wasn't cut into slices and served to each table as with many Western weddings.
The day would not be complete without acknowledging another African tradition, speeches. There were numerous speeches from both friends and family members. Much was not understandable since it was in Kikuyu, but the underlying themes were love and sincere congratulations for their new union.